FAQ
What LUNAFORM™ is, who makes it, and how working with NUERA actually goes.
An advanced nanocellulose biomaterial grown through BioCraft, GOZEN's proprietary controlled fermentation process. It has innate strength, a cascading drape and a novel memory, and a lower impact than traditional materials.
LUNAFORM™ is not "made from" anything — it is grown. Microorganisms create a biological lattice of nanocellulose, forming sheets of 100% bio-based wet-state LUNAFORM™. These are then dried and finished by skilled human hands.
Nanocellulose is a fibrous biological material — the natural result of connections made during the BioCraft process, as millions of interconnected cellulosic threads form a growing lattice.
Yes. LUNAFORM™ is 100% bio-based in its wet state and non-animal, and holds USDA Certified Biobased Product certification at 100% biobased content.
Fully formed sheets of LUNAFORM™ complete their growth journey at 13 square feet, in seven days — grown with minimal inputs, requiring fewer interventions to reach final form than traditional leathers or plant-based materials.
LUNAFORM™ reaches consumers through the brands that design with it. The first piece reached retail in 2023 with the Balenciaga LUNAFORM™ Maxi Bathrobe Coat, and further brand partnerships will be announced.
NUERA is the biofabrication arm of DESA, powered by GOZEN. It holds the exclusive global production and sales rights to LUNAFORM™, the advanced nanocellulose biomaterial invented by GOZEN, and covers the material's entire industrial journey: biofabrication, finished material, customization, product manufacturing and global brand supply.
NUERA is wholly owned by DESA. GOZEN granted it global production and sales rights to LUNAFORM™ under a long-term exclusive licensing arrangement, and top GOZEN talent is fully embedded in the company.
A material company owns biofabrication and supplies into the next stage. Everything after — customization, quality control, manufacturing, supply — the brand assembles itself. NUERA is built around all five stages, so a brand can access one integrated ecosystem rather than coordinating four relationships.
Both. Alongside the full range of customization — custom colour development, coating, embossing and backing — brands can develop and manufacture finished leather goods and other commercial products in LUNAFORM™ through DESA's manufacturing capabilities.
LUNAFORM™ is processed and finished using DESA's existing leather-processing infrastructure, including its Leather Working Group Gold-certified tannery (certificate DES102). The certification is one part of it. The larger part is the accumulated knowledge of how to turn a raw substrate into a consistent, sophisticated, commercially usable material — and LUNAFORM™ now benefits from it.
Those ventures made impressive progress and much of what is now possible rests on their science. What the field has been missing is the industrial half: processing, finishing craft, quality systems and manufacturing capacity that took the leather industry generations to build.
Building both at once is an enormous undertaking. NUERA did not have to — DESA's infrastructure was already running, and LUNAFORM™ can be processed on it.
Start a conversation through the enquiry form — a few lines about what you are developing is enough to begin. Material samples are available on request, and technical performance data is available under NDA in the technical pack.