NUERA

FAQ

Questions, answered plainly.

What LUNAFORM™ is, who makes it, and how working with NUERA actually goes.

The material

What is LUNAFORM™?

An advanced nanocellulose biomaterial grown through BioCraft, GOZEN's proprietary controlled fermentation process. It has innate strength, a cascading drape and a novel memory, and a lower impact than traditional materials.

What is LUNAFORM™ made of?

LUNAFORM™ is not "made from" anything — it is grown. Microorganisms create a biological lattice of nanocellulose, forming sheets of 100% bio-based wet-state LUNAFORM™. These are then dried and finished by skilled human hands.

What is nanocellulose?

Nanocellulose is a fibrous biological material — the natural result of connections made during the BioCraft process, as millions of interconnected cellulosic threads form a growing lattice.

Is LUNAFORM™ animal-free?

Yes. LUNAFORM™ is 100% bio-based in its wet state and non-animal, and holds USDA Certified Biobased Product certification at 100% biobased content.

How long does it take to grow?

Fully formed sheets of LUNAFORM™ complete their growth journey at 13 square feet, in seven days — grown with minimal inputs, requiring fewer interventions to reach final form than traditional leathers or plant-based materials.

Where can I buy products made with LUNAFORM™?

LUNAFORM™ reaches consumers through the brands that design with it. The first piece reached retail in 2023 with the Balenciaga LUNAFORM™ Maxi Bathrobe Coat, and further brand partnerships will be announced.

Working with NUERA

What is NUERA?

NUERA is the biofabrication arm of DESA, powered by GOZEN. It holds the exclusive global production and sales rights to LUNAFORM™, the advanced nanocellulose biomaterial invented by GOZEN, and covers the material's entire industrial journey: biofabrication, finished material, customization, product manufacturing and global brand supply.

Who owns NUERA?

NUERA is wholly owned by DESA. GOZEN granted it global production and sales rights to LUNAFORM™ under a long-term exclusive licensing arrangement, and top GOZEN talent is fully embedded in the company.

How is that different from working with a biomaterial supplier?

A material company owns biofabrication and supplies into the next stage. Everything after — customization, quality control, manufacturing, supply — the brand assembles itself. NUERA is built around all five stages, so a brand can access one integrated ecosystem rather than coordinating four relationships.

Can NUERA manufacture finished products, or only supply material?

Both. Alongside the full range of customization — custom colour development, coating, embossing and backing — brands can develop and manufacture finished leather goods and other commercial products in LUNAFORM™ through DESA's manufacturing capabilities.

Why does the tannery matter?

LUNAFORM™ is processed and finished using DESA's existing leather-processing infrastructure, including its Leather Working Group Gold-certified tannery (certificate DES102). The certification is one part of it. The larger part is the accumulated knowledge of how to turn a raw substrate into a consistent, sophisticated, commercially usable material — and LUNAFORM™ now benefits from it.

Hundreds of biomaterial ventures have been funded, and none reached large volumes. Why would this be different?

Those ventures made impressive progress and much of what is now possible rests on their science. What the field has been missing is the industrial half: processing, finishing craft, quality systems and manufacturing capacity that took the leather industry generations to build.

Building both at once is an enormous undertaking. NUERA did not have to — DESA's infrastructure was already running, and LUNAFORM™ can be processed on it.

How do I get samples or technical data?

Start a conversation through the enquiry form — a few lines about what you are developing is enough to begin. Material samples are available on request, and technical performance data is available under NDA in the technical pack.

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